“We are morphing the business and taking it global so the craft community continues to thrive, and that is the biggest purpose of the brand,” says Sabyasachi Mukherjee in an interview. It’s 2025, a Bengal tiger graces the world with new ideas with his regal royal elegance, the trailblazer and beacon of hope for the Indian fashion industry, on the way to build India’s first luxury Lifestyle Brand.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee, an Indian fashion designer and couturier, preserves the precious Indian handicrafts and craftsmanship. In an interview with The Week, he mentioned doing this for his nation, India. Sabyasachi is known for using rich fabrics and textures for his designs that are luxurious with the inclusiveness of the artistry and craftsmanship from across the country in the form of embroidery, block prints and textile textures.
He is one of the forces behind the empowerment of countless Indian artisans and craft clusters. He single-handedly became the messiah for saving the dying Indian craft. Now, if you are still with me.. Let’s find out who the man Sabyasachi Mukherjee is, what inspires him…and how he will change the Indian fashion industry.
A young boy with big talent
Sabhyasachi was a child protégé, he mentioned how he directed and designed costumes in a school play at just age 11 or 12. He said that at that moment, when his teachers recognised his talent, he knew that he would make a big impact one day.
Mukherjee was born in a Middle-class Bengali family, lived a simple life growing up and often faced financial turmoil in the family. He graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata, in 1999 as an outstanding student, starting his label “Sabyasachi” in the same year. With an army of three.
He presented his debut collection “Kashgar bazaar” at the Lakme Fashion Show 2003. It was a collection of sarees with embroidery like zari work, block print, traditional paintings, etc.
His models walked the runway with smeared vermilion, which the spectator said is the royal attitude with a “bold and sexy” element. Sabyasachi told a story that day, that design is more than the nuances of sophistication, it’s the epitome of bold with an intellectual mind with a rebellious effect.
Diving into Indian Handicraft
Like Sabyasachi, I too graduated from NIFT. We are encouraged to work with the local artisans and craft clusters to create our design collection. The motive was to uplift the Indian craft and empower the artisan spirit, a partnership that encourages and educates young, budding designers about the Indian craft.
Likewise, Sabyasachi is always lauded for being the biggest cheerleader of Indian craftsmanship. Sabyasachi’s love towards traditional handloom and handicraft came way before, his biggest influencer was his grandmothers, both women have a strong hold on the traditional and modernity.
Handwoven crafts like Katha embroidery, Banarasi Kalamkari, Chanderi M.P Bandhani, Chikankari from Lucknow, Pashmina from Kashmir, Patola from Patan, Gujarat, Kanjivaram, Tamil Nadu are a few of the many crafts that are inculcated in his designs. He also uses traditional handwoven fabric like khadi, muga, tussar silk, etc
Today, Sabyasachi is associated with 100 craftsmen and works on commission with nearly 3000 artisans nationwide. He claims that Indian handicrafts and textiles are our biggest superpower in the fashion Industry.
Global Recognition
Sabyasachi recognised he was making a big impact in his country. He won the Femina British Designer award and was offered an internship with Print Designer Georgina Von Etzdorf and an opportunity to research the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
With the Western exposure and tons of important resources, Sabyasachi made some notable discoveries-
- Lack of awareness of Indian craft and heritage.
- Global ignorance towards Indian fashion as background players.
He wanted to change the outlook that Indian talents are only restricted to primitive crafts. He received admiration at Mercedes Benz New Asia Fashion Week in Singapore, where he was named the Grand winner.
His signature style, Juxtaposition of Layering Traditional Indian craft and hand-woven fabrics with multicultural dance with bohemian essence, impressed the legendary fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier, who offered him an internship at Azzedine Alaïa in Paris.
Sabyasachi showcased his international show in Milan Fashion Week in a never-before-seen, unconventional collection named “The Frog Princess”
He presented his collections in London and New York Fashion Week and got mixed reactions. He was featured in British Vogue for presenting at the Oxford University charity gala.
Sabysachi was the first Indian designer to get a window in Brown for retail in Selfridge. Rumour has it that his collections were all sold out during their time in the stores.
Introducing the Bridal collection
People often wonder why Sabyasachi left the West. Why did he stop presenting at the global fashion shows? Why did he leave so many possibilities?
To answer that question, I would like to add that after spending considerable time and contributing to the global fashion shows, Mukherjee decided that Indians need to recognise the strength of Indian craft.
He launched his Bridal collection in 2016, named “Chand Bibi”. The collection was an integration of traditional craft fused with Bohemian aesthetics. An inclusive collection bringing back the traditional work of art in Indian weddings, drawing traditional local crafts together to orchestrate the entire wedding market in India.
Sabyasachi has dressed many business tycoons and celebrities alike. Actress Anushka Sharma and Indian Cricketer Virat Kohli for their private wedding in Tuscany, Italy. He also dressed Deepika Padukone and Ranveer Singh, actress Priyanka Chopra and Singer Nick Jonas for their weddings.
Sabyasachi was called the most copied Fashion designer. His designs created such a frenzy that he was titled the most copied Fashion designer. Once, I remember my former boss bought a Sabyasachi knockoff for her wedding from a market called Chandni Chowk in Delhi.
Brand’s signature language
Brought up in Calcutta, his signature style stems from the very root of the city in the realm. Kolkata has a strong and lasting legacy of art, culture, music and literacy in every fibre of the city’s existence. His biggest inspirations were his grandmothers, the Spanish painter Frida Kahlo, Madonna, etc. Major glimpses of Art Nouveau are visible in his collections.
His brand’s entire hallmark is Maximalism married with modern bohemian multiculturalism. Sabyasachi’s designs speak for themselves. Every design has a story behind it, his aesthetic is more layered than you think. The use of rich textured fabric infused with bold, deeper palette hues in his design and hand paintings, bold prints which speak of subtle hidden luxury. Sabyasachi once said, “We are a maximalist country. We are conditioned to believe that minimalism is sophisticated and maximalism is tacky. I think maximalism can be very sophisticated.”
Sabyasachi’s theme language is more the merrier. He believes minimalism is fine, but at some point, it becomes a continuous cycle of repetitive recurrence, which turns into a never-ending chain. In Fashion, change is the only constant.
If you look at a Sabyasachi ad campaign, you will see sophistication and rebelliousness. It’s a classy mix of traditional with modern. His models stand tall and proud like Gods and goddesses, reciting many songs of Indian culture.
25th Anniversary
Celebrating 25 years of Sabyasachi
Sabyasachi celebrated the 25th anniversary of his brand “Sabyasachi”; he invited 600. Guests included global publication editors, luxury retailers, Bollywood celebrities and a light of the brand. The dress code was “strictly black”
“I chose black because the clothes had to be the star. There was so much of a power play at the show, and the least I could do was homogenise everyone by saying ‘wear black’. Black also gives you a powerful feeling of community,” says Mukherjee.
The show was held at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai. The set was built with an old-school charm. It reminded me of the old Zamindar bari (Landlord’s house) from old Calcutta, now just a memory. It was quite a surprising show because the audience was expecting to see the usual traditional ensembles, instead they were faced with the modern tempering of classic retro looks with a sprinkle of pop.
This show was an ode to all his idols who influenced him as a young teenager, namely Frieda Kahlo, Madonna, and Wes Anderson. The 150 looks included mini skirts, pinstripe suits and slogan ensembles like “Dog Dad”, “Table for One”, jewelled studded coats and high neck blouses and introduced Japanese denim on the show.
The main surprise when the crowd broke a cry was when supermodel Christy Turlington walked in a black turtleneck jumper in cream coloured pants accessorised with the Sabysachi signature glasses, cuff and long multiple string pearl necklace. Deepika Padukone also graced the show in white trousers and a shirt with a trench coat, accessorising the look with a crucifix necklace and stackable bangles with a love heart floral ornament.
Jewellery Venture
Sabyasachi launched his jewellery collection in 2011, which stormed the country. He launched a mangalsutra with a fresh, unconventional design that caused a stir in the country.
Sabyasachi opened his first flagship store in New York for jewellery. New Sabyasachi stores will be opening in Bengaluru and Hyderabad for Jewellery. Mukherjee believes that his jewellery and accessories have brought him 35% of the brand’s revenue in the Middle East and America.
He reiterates that his jewellery is as valued as any other jewellery brand in the country, and his customers see this jewellery as something that can be passed down through generations.
Philanthropic Work
I respect the fact that Sabyasachi not only preserves the Indian craft, but he also takes measures to care for his artisans. A strong pillar who truly cares about the employee’s welfare, who makes it plausible for him to build his luxury brand.
He took the initiative and started his Sabyasachi Art Foundation. The mission of this foundation is to empower and train countless artisans and to preserve the Indian craft through the generations.
People and children from underprivileged backgrounds are trained and taught art and creativity. These people are empowered every day so that they can stand on their own feet and don’t have to abandon their legacy and talent to earn their living. Sabyasachi remembers that his mother always loved art, but because of her family responsibilities had to leave that passion. His foundation has created many jobs in Bengal and supported many lives.
Final Thought
Sabyasachi is a pride of the nation, he has forced Indians to look inwards to realise our strength in the modern century. He knows that Indian handicraft and heritage is our biggest superpower. From Bollywood to making an international mark and building a foundation for himself and millions of youngsters aspiring to be ambitious. He walked so that millions could fly. Today’s Sabyasachi is on the road to build a homegrown luxury brand that will walk shoulder to shoulder with European and American labels.
He plans to launch his Perfume and beauty products in a year. Add more Sabyasachi stores in India. His vision of making Sabyasachi a 20 billion dollar brand in 10 years looks promising. As Sabysachi is supported by the Indian Industrialist, Birla bought a 51 % stake in the company.
I am more excited about what’s up for the company next, what new collection or jewellery the brand will launch. So, please share what you think Sabyasachi should launch next? If you get a chance to purchase Sabyasachi? What will it be?
Please feel free to comment down below and stay tuned!